"It's your birthday today, isn't it? Congratulations!", Umberto de Giuseppe says cheerfully and with many hand gestures to one of the staff as he walks into his restaurant on the corner of Kazernestraat and Denneweg. However early in the morning it is, the 62-year-old co-owner of Impero Romano is already fully 'on'. "That's my Italian temperament," winks the patron as he orders an espresso for himself and his guest.

Almost a quarter of a century ago, De Giuseppe started this culinary adventure with his cousin, the also Puglia-born chef Fabio Merico. And in no time, the tagliolini al parmigiano - pasta turned in parmesan with butter, sage and fresh truffle - and the sea bass in salt crust became famous far beyond the court city. "Traditional Italian dishes that you couldn't find anywhere on the menu in the Netherlands at the time and with which we set a new standard," he explains of the success. "That has earned us many loyal guests."

'Third room'

Politicians such as Jaap de Hoop Scheffer, Jozias van Aartsen and Mark Rutte were also quick to find their way to Impero Romano. "We are also called the 'Derde Kamer'," De Giuseppe says with a laugh as he pulls a framed 2003 Volkskrant article from the wall. It shows how CDA MPs Maxime Verhagen, Joop Wijn and Cees van der Knaap convinced Prime Minister Jan Peter Balkenende not to join forces with the PvdA for his next cabinet during a dinner at this restaurant.

Keep harping on old hits, however, the partners do not. "Routine is the biggest enemy," argues De Giuseppe. "Building up something is easy, continuing to prove yourself and keep up with what is happening in society is a greater art. That is why we are constantly looking for innovation while respecting the rich Italian cuisine." For example, Impero Romano works as much as possible with eco-friendly products from the season, wild fish is preferred over farmed fish and the kitchen has now completely switched from gas to electricity. "Everything to be able to pass on the tradition to the next generation as well," the patron refers to his children.

To reinforce his philosophy, De Giuseppe quotes the equally contrarian and visionary winemaker Angelo Gaja (1940), who heads a veritable dynasty with wineries in Piedmont, Tuscany and Sicily. "I have known Gaja since my younger days, when I was at hotel school in Italy. A particularly innovative figure who has shown with methods unprecedented for Italy that his Barbaresco can be better than the famous Barolo from just down the road. His is the quote: 'You have to look at the present with the eyes of the future.' I find that SO beautiful, and I think our family businesses have that in common."

Experiment

It is therefore no coincidence that Impero Romano has been a Gaja ambassador from day one and has a wide range of their wines on its menu. "They are quality wines that were not so well known in the Netherlands at the time, we could distinguish ourselves nicely with that," De Giuseppe explains, surrounded by countless Gaja bottles. "Because that's the beauty of it: while the Dutch are critical, they are open to experimentation and appreciate good quality."

The long relationship with Gaja and Kwast Wijnkopers, the winery's representative in the Netherlands, led to De Giuseppe being invited to wineries on several occasions. "It all started with the Barbaresco from Piedmont, the queen of wines," he lectures. "A full-bodied, complex red wine from nebbiolo grapes with earthy woody and licorice notes; you taste the forest, so to speak. This goes perfectly with dishes with cheese, like our pasta parmesan."

The Impero boss also speaks highly of the white Rossj-Bass, a regional blend of chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. "The use of those grapes was really non-existent in Piedmont's wine tradition 50 years ago - a shame even - but Gaja did it anyway," he explains admiringly. "That produced a wine with a somewhat creamy structure, which also has something mineral and fresh thanks to the sauvignon. A glass that goes very well with a fish dish, such as our speciality with sturgeon."

Fish brings the conversation to Tuscany, where the Gaja family has also run two wineries since the 1990s: Ca'Marcanda and Pieve Santa Restituta. "Ca'Marcanda's Vistamare is also great with fish!" exclaims De Giuseppe. "The blend of vermentino, viognier and fiano creates a spicy and citrusy freshness - delicious with oysters, for example."

Top Chardonnay

Then the patron still wants to return to Piedmont for the absolute pinnacle among Gaja's white wines: Gaia & Rey. "A top-chardonnay from volcanic soil full of tropical fruit and soft tannins. That wine is really not inferior to the best bourgognes," he assures. De Giuseppe is also closely following the Gaja dynasty's latest project: the winery IDDA on the slope of Mount Etna in Sicily. "There, the first harvest will be vinified in autumn 2023. I am very curious to see how those wines will develop."

Gaja's Rossj-Bass, a blend of chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, goes very well with Impero Romano's fish dishes

And what does the future look like for De Giuseppe's own empire, which besides Impero Romano on Kazernestraat also consists of the restaurant of the same name in Amsterdam as well as the concept Very Italian Pizza (VIP) in Kettingstraat in The Hague, Rotterdam and Leiden? "My son Michele works mainly behind the scenes, my daughter Priscilla is involved in VIP and my youngest son Christian helps out during his studies," he says. "It would be very nice if they continue the business in the long run, but that is only possible with good people working for you. That's why I also try to teach them to delegate."

For now, the children must be patient, because De Giuseppe is not thinking of quitting yet. "I do take it a little easier and try to stay in Italy for a few months during the summer to eat out and discover new things. But first we have an anniversary celebration planned; restaurants come and go, but we stayed. I'm proud of that."

www.kwastwijnkopers.nl and www.imperoromano.nl